An In-Depth Look at the A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Chronograph “Darth”
Take a look at Rembrandt’s portraits. What do you see? A rich use of brown, black colors as the background, where the subject emerges from the dark. He believed that out of complete void could he express the deepest of human emotions. Indeed, black is unforgiving. As it absorbs the light itself, it puts every other detail to the front. An object with a black must be flawless in every detail. Case in point: 1815 Chronograph reference 414.028.
Chronographs and black dials go way back – to Patek Philippe one might say, as many other things in watchmaking. The oldest I can remember is the reference 130 single-button chronograph with a special black dial, auctioned by Phillips Watches. Even though there have been a few in between (for high-end manufactures, otherwise there have been many) it was never a trend. Then, during the late ‘80s Vacheron Constantin came up with the reference 47101, followed by Patek Philippe’s 5070J in 1998. A. Lange & Söhne arrived on the scene with the majestic coupledom of black dial & white metal in 1999 with the Datograph.
However, the coupledom of white metal/black dial at A. Lange & Söhne goes way back than the Datograph. Indeed, it was in 1996 when A. Lange & Söhne introduced the unique Darth Tourbillon Pour le Mérite and 1999 for the now elusive Lange 1 Darth, both in platinum.
The full-black, white metal chronographs however, as with others, were mostly done on special occasions for A. Lange & Söhne – such as the reference 404.036 platinum Double Split for Sincere Fine Watches, limited to 5 pieces. Or the unique Datograph made for an executive, according to rumors. Accounting all these, it is safe to say that a full black chronograph holds a special place within A. Lange & Söhne’s modern history, and the 1815 Chronograph 414.028 is possibly the most desirable one, yet.
Introduced in 2017 as a part of the third generation of the 1815 Chronograph collection, the 414.028 is a watch that has deep, traditional roots merged with industrial outlook.
1815 Chronograph white gold / black dial’s case measures at a brilliant 39.5mm in diameter and 11.1mm in thickness, wearing extremely well. The curved lugs further hug the wrist no matter the size of the wrist. The retaining bar within the buckle keeps the strap within the buckle and preventing the strap from getting stuck if you are using one of the smallest holes.
The case carries fantastic details. In 1990, when Günter Blümlein and Walter Lange re-founded A. Lange & Söhne, the main pillar for the success was meaningful differentiation. Had the brand followed the proven recipe of Swiss Watchmaking, it was doomed to fail. Hence, Blümlein focused on offering a different aura and for watches, it starts from the cases.
Blümlein said that he wants to deliver the feeling of closing a Mercedes’ door. Walt Odets summarizes it the best for 1994 Saxonia, which can be applied to all Lange pieces; “At 34mm and a slightly thick 8.5mm or so, it looked like a biscuit and was twice the weight a gold watch its size ought to be. The buckle was twice the weight it ought to be. Even the sapphire back had more gold in it than two solid backs from anyone else.”
Constructed on three-steps with alternate finishing, 1815 Chronograph strikes a brilliant balance between its traditional elements and modern façade. Lugs are multi-faceted, notched at the base and screwed to the case, adding more angles and interplay of light.
The dial takes you back to the 19th century, but it is far from being a mere replica. Blessed with custom-crafted typeface over Engravers font, the unforgiving black carries thick Arabic numerals, rail-way minute track, Saxon flower decorations on each of the 15-minute markers and the signature curved logo at the top. All inspired from the past, and perfectly adapted to our day.
The hands are made of rhodium-plated white gold. There is not any other color than white and black on the 1815 Chronograph’s dial—as if it was meant to be disguised. It is monochrome, and monotone offering a serenity upon a glance. Though everything is a trade-off… Sometimes, it is just impossible to read the time as hands fade against the black background. Every rose has a thorn. Just tilt the watch a bit, and you are good to go. Believe me, the extra 2 seconds are worth it.
1815 Chronograph is famous for many things but one of the most prominent ones is its multi-layered dial. Starting from the angled pulsometer scale, the dial deepens step by step. All indications reside on their own chapters, not interfering with any other. Sub-dials are given concentric circles to create a contrast with the main dial. No detail is too much.
A good friend of mine, Ben (il_drago85), is a living witness to this. He took hundreds of photos of the 1815 Chronograph in black. “The design of this watch is quite classic, but the multi-level, black-colored dial makes it very dynamic. This dial is full of details that are very pleasant to photograph,” says the man who just cannot have enough of this watch.
Speaking of sub-dials, they sit way below the center – understandably annoying to some. Caliber L951.5 is the guilty party in this. Though when you turn the watch over, it immediately redeems itself. Impossible to stay mad at such beauty.
The beating heart of the full black 1815 Chronograph is the legendary L951 series. And the moniker legendary is not an exaggeration. The base L951 was introduced in 1999 with the Datograph and since 2004 it powers the 1815 Chronograph line, as well as constitutes the base for the likes of the Double Split and the Triple Split.
The manually-wound, horizontal clutch, column-wheel chronograph movements have been in our lives for decades. From the exceptional pocket watch calibers crafted by the likes of Victorin Piguet to the rightfully famous Lemania, we have seen many. What puts the L951 series on a different level however is not its technicality, no. It is its inimitable depth, harmony in finishing techniques and exemplary movement architecture. It was the movement that got me into watchmaking more than a decade ago, and it is still beating fresh!
Indeed, Ben remarks, “How can you not be impressed by the architecture of the L.951.5 Caliber?! We cannot remain indifferent to the sight of the 306 parts that make up the caliber without forgetting one of the brand’s signatures: the engraved balance bridge! Triggering the flyback chronograph is a great experience: it is triggered in a very comfortable, very soft way.”
The static parts are made of German Silver, like the three-quarter plate at the bottom or the chronograph seconds’ and jumping minute counter bridge. The warm hue of the maillechort is balanced with the industrial outlook of the brushed-steel chronograph levers. The needed shine comes forward with flat polished parts such as the column-wheel, flyback lever, etc… Oh, not to mention the gold chatons and blued screws…
Almost all of these parts are generously beveled and polished, allowing the interplay of light like none other. The engraved balance cock reflects a tradition from 150 years ago, carrying the flat polished swan’s neck regulator. Albeit without function, looks cool, nonetheless. Years go on and on, and I’m still in love with this view.
This miniature city is made of 306 delicate parts, beats at a traditional 2.5Hz – matching that hashmarks on the dial and offers 60 hours of power reserve.
Wearing this watch as well as taking pictures is a real pleasure. Beyond this fantastic movement, the impression of wearing a quality watch is very present – closes, Ben. I agree. This watch fully reflects what was intentioned by Günter Blümlein; “A Lange watch should feel like closing a Mercedes door.”
Overall, I think that the third generation of the 1815 Chronograph collection gets it right with every detail. And for sure, the reference 414.028 here is the most badass of the line. It is subtle, versatile, and irresistibly charming. It is a watch that one cannot get bored from loving it – and what is more important than that?