In Focus: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar

When Audemars Piguet teamed up with Gerald Genta to design Royal Oak in 1971 and 1972, they could not forecast the commercial success the watch would bring. In 1981, the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar was released, designed to be the thinnest perpetual of its kind. It would set a standard of excellence that lives on today with which few watches contend.

The yellow gold of the case and bracelet has a straw hue to it, and the bracelet features a satinized finish, giving it a mellow tone and feel. The case and bezel feature a combination of high polish and satinized finishes, which give the watch a warm and subtle feel, inviting without being overbearing.

At 39mm, the watch is still a relevant size today, and at 8.6mm thick, the watch is a serious contender for a daily wearer. The bracelet and clasp feature the original design, with the white gold single fold stamped clasp, with the AP friction buckle as a redundant safety catch. It feels almost out of place on this Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar.

The dial is calming, not cluttered, providing a perfect straw gold background on which to read the time. The month, day, and date registers are clear and easy to read. The moonphase, in midnight navy, adds depth and complexity against the gold dial, and looks perfect with the blued hands of the month day, and date registers. Gold cabochons at 12, 3, and 9 o’clock provide easy reference points, while polished batons serve as the hour markers elsewhere on the dial. The gold hands are delicate, but a reflection of the time and remind the wearer of the watch’s age.

If the 1980’s were the decade of decadence, this watch is the calm before, and after, the storm. It is so clearly the background for all modern Royal Oaks and is a flawless execution of a watch that was as perfect in 1986 as it is today. This Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar has a timelessness to it that would make it a perfect daily wearing perpetual calendar.

The Specs

Model: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Quantieme Perpetual

Reference Number: 25554BA

Case Size + Material: 39mm case in 18k yellow gold

Caseback: Solid caseback

Movement: Automatic self-winding mechanical movement

Functions:  Hours, minutes, day, date, month, moonphase

Strap/Bracelet: 18k white yellow bracelet

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Quantieme Perpetual