Rolex Milgauss Review: The Anti-Magnetic Anti-Rolex

• • The Rolex Milgauss plays by its own rules within the Rolex Oyster Collection.

• • A three-hand antihero, the Milgauss ditches fat bezels and “Cyclops Eyes” for uncluttered elegance.

• • Still a Rolex Oyster, the rugged Milgauss can go anywhere a GMT-Master II or Explorer can.

• • But Milgauss also packs a unique punch; anti-magnetic shielding against modern high-tech electronics.

Introduced as the ultimate tool watch for “space-age” technologists in 1956, the Rolex Milgauss has evolved to become something of a postmodern anti-hero within the Rolex lineup.

It’s not an extreme sports watch, it’s not movie star, and it has no celebrity associations. What the Milgauss does have is the subtle sophistication, Rolex refinement, and square-jawed good looks to sneak up and impress friends, family, and associates of its fortunate owners.

Rolex’s Milgauss always has occupied a parallel plane in the luxury watch market. While most Rolex Oyster professional models appeal directly to enthusiasts of watersports, aviation, hiking, and, naturally, status, the Milgauss is a more cerebral character that wins fans with its subtle sophistication.

The Milgauss exudes a timeless style that combines classical simplicity with flourishes of 21st century irony and avant-garde flair.

Simplicity is a three-hand/time-only wristwatch, and the Milgauss delivers. With neither a date window nor a looming “Cyclops Eye” magnifier to spoil the smooth expanse of the matte black dial, this Rolex compares favorably to the most elegant members of the company’s own Cellini dress watch line.

While the orange flourishes are a modern addition to the historically clean-shaven visage of the Milgauss, they’re fully in keeping with the model’s heritage and Rolex’s droll humor; the 1956 original featured a similar “lighting bolt” seconds hand… and a “hobnail” waffle-pattern dial!

A high dial-to-bezel ratio enhances the impression of uncluttered refinement by enabling the designers to spread the indexes and text without crowding.

The absence of a large calibrated bezel – like those found on most Rolex Oyster models – creates the illusion that the Milgauss is far larger than its 40mm case size. In contrast, watches like the Rolex GMT-Master II and Submariner seem to shrink as each successive generation debuts with a broader bezel and pinched dial.

Without the obtrusive height of a rotating bezel, the Milgauss sits beautifully flat on the wrist. Among Rolex sports models, the Milgauss is the hands-down champ of cuff compatibility. In a suit, this watch looks the part and wears like a proper dress model.

Unlike those Cellini dress models and formal watches from other brands, the Milgauss retains Rolex “Perpetual” automatic winding for user convenience and a proper screw-down crown for salvation from the inevitable soaking that befalls every luxury watch.

A Rolex Oyster bracelet with Oysterclasp deployant keeps the watch secure on the wrist and compliments the good looks of the case. Alternately polished and brushed steel links incorporate a subtle tapering that pares the visual mass of the bracelet and enhances the impression of elegance on the wrist.

Rolex’s Oysterclasp is impressively solid, secure, and versatile. The system opens and closes with a crisp “snap” and permits tool-free adjustments of length via a Rolex 5mm “Easylink” hidden within the clasp.

While the Rolex Milgauss works as a dress watch, it remains a sports standout. Encased in a water-resistant 100m Rolex Oyster case, the Milgauss can venture anywhere an Explorer II or GMT dares to tread – and quite a few where the other “Oysters” start to crack.

Water resistance is one matter, but this Rolex “antihero” also claims anti-magnetic powers. Although conceived in the early high-tech days of the Sputnik era, the Rolex Milgauss comes into its own as shielded companion for modern users who routinely encounter massive stereos, home entertainment systems, office computers, and modern medical equipment.

Today, all of us live and work in tech-heavy environments that would shock the engineers of the 1950s. These machines create magnetic fields that can scramble the accuracy of mechanical luxury watches.

Enter the Rolex Milgauss; its name says it all. This timepiece is shielded with a second internal soft-iron case (“Faraday Cage”) that protects the movement from flux created by electronic devices. Rolex provides extra lines of defense with an anti-magnetic escapement and the company’s exclusive “Parachrom Bleu” harispring, both of which supplement the shielding effect of the iron cage.

ISO 764 defines an “anti-magnetic watch” as one that can keep time in a field of 4,800 Amperes/Meter; Milgauss laughs at 50,000 A/M. Unless you play with atomic accelerators for fun, the Milgauss is all the magnetic protection you’ll ever need. Naturally, your iPhone is SOL. Condolences.

Deceptively content-rich, the Milgauss’ Cal. 3131 movement packs a veritable bag of tricks. The power reserve of 50 hours is robust and solidly exceeds the industry standard 42 hours. Rolex’s “perpetual” automatic winding system is an industry standard that makes this a “set-it-and-forget-it” kind of watch, and the “Paraflex” anti-shock system extends the Geneva legend’s industry-leading reputation for ruggedness.

A COSC Swiss Chronometer, the Rolex Milgauss’ movement has been certified by third party accuracy testing performed over a two-week period. And because every Swiss Chronometer should be precise to the last detail, Rolex incorporates a stop-seconds (“hacking”) feature that enables users to set the Milgauss precisely against a reliable reference clock.

Available from The 1916 Company, this Rolex Milgauss 116400 includes all of the Milgauss’ standout features, show room-quality condition, and a comprehensive set of boxes, papers, and factory Rolex accessories. Moreover, our black dial, all-white index, and clear sapphire version is a discontinued reference.

As each discontinued watch becomes a “limited edition” by default, expect the market supply of museum-quality examples to dwindle with time. Not only is this Milgauss a rare breed of Rolex, but it offers collector potential for luxury watch buyers who plan for the long haul.

The Rolex Milgauss is a different kind of Rolex for a different kind of Rolex buyer. Luxury watch owners who desire comments and conversation beyond the standard gawker’s “ISATAREELROLLEX?!?” will find the Milgauss to be an endless well of engaging discourse and sincere compliments.

Colleagues suffering from Submariner burnout are guaranteed to take notice.