The Grail Watch: Chasing a Myth or a Misstep in Collecting Ideology
Is the pursuit of a grail watch a meaningful goal or just clever marketing? Here’s why the joy of collecting lies in curating a diverse, evolving collection instead of chasing an elusive “holy grail.”
In the world of watch collecting, the concept of the “grail watch” is standard fare. Collectors often dream of that one ultimate piece—the “grail” that will complete their collection and bring a sense of fulfillment. But what exactly is a “grail watch?” The idea of a grail watch, much like the elusive pot of gold at the end of the rainbow, can be misleading. Often, these watches are marketed as must-haves, sporting sky-high price tags or being produced in such limited quantities that the average collector may never realistically own one. This pursuit, driven more by clever marketing than actual passion, turns watch collecting into a race toward the unattainable, rather than an enjoyable journey of discovery.
Instead of chasing a single, often unachievable goal, I believe collectors should focus on building a well-rounded collection that speaks to their evolving tastes and horological interests. Like in life, there will always be a “better” watch—just as there will always be a bigger house or a faster car. What brings more lasting satisfaction is curating a collection that checks all the boxes for the individual, one that grows and changes over time.
A grail watch can become limiting, especially as our knowledge and preferences shift. Chasing a grail watch is many times like chasing the wind. You can feel it, sometimes even see it, but you can never hold it, keep it, take it with you. True fulfillment comes not from the pursuit of a perfect watch but from the joy of collecting pieces that reflect your unique journey.
When Asked About Your Grail Watch
As a collector, and someone who has been in the industry for a bit, the concept and question of a grail watch comes up often. I was at a wedding recently when I was asked what I do for a living, which was shortly followed up with, “So what is your grail watch?” After a few aperitivos, the mind wandered. I generally have at least one watch I can speak to. It’s usually just to end the conversation instead of sounding like a pretentious ass. I would generally say a Vacheron Overseas Everest Dual Time Edition. It’s obscure enough that most people wouldn’t question it, but not so out there that someone can’t ask a follow-up question.
But in this instance, I paused and listened to the EDM music wafting through the 15th-century Venetian villa I was standing in, acknowledging the dichotomy of the scene, and said, “I don’t have one.” The guy’s face almost looked disappointed. “I like too many to choose, but if I had to pick a few, it would be a Rolex Explorer ref. 1016, a De Bethune Starry Seas in 38mm, or a Patek Philippe 5196R.” I stopped, felt the awkward silence, looked around for my wife wondering if I could exit this conversation as quickly as possible, only to find we were alone by the bar. So I added, “Well, maybe it’s an F.P. Journe Holland & Holland… There are too many to choose from.”
I find that discussing watches with people not fully engrossed in the watch world is tricky because terminology and discussions around price often fly over their heads. If you throw out a name they’ve never heard of, the conversation falls flat. If you start explaining that your grail watch is as expensive as a house, you sound insane. If I mention something like the F.P. Journe T30 Tourbillon with a hunter caseback or a Patek Philippe Sky Moon Tourbillon, you can practically see them disengage. I may nerd out about a Philippe Dufour Simplicity but to the untrained eye it’s just another expensive watch no one we know actually owns.
You know how the standard grail watch talk goes. For someone uninitiated, it’s a Breitling Avenger. For the person who has read too many Hodinkee articles, it’s the Jon Bues Grand Seiko GMT (albeit both fantastic watches, but not quite grails).
Here’s the key point: my grail watch has changed so much from the time I first got into this obsession that I’ve stopped trying to pinpoint one. Fortunately, I’ve documented all my shifting desires in an ever-evolving “ultimate watch collection” list. And that, in itself, illustrates the problem with the grail watch concept—our tastes change, our interests grow, and the watch we once thought would fulfill us might no longer be the one we crave.
At one point, my grail was a Speedmaster Professional. Then, it was a Rolex Explorer. Later, it became a Journe Chronomètre Bleu. But now, there isn’t just one grail watch for me anymore; there’s an entire collection I desire.
Why Do We Use the Term ‘Grail’?
At this point in history, most people have watched Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade. We remember Indy on an incredible adventure to find the Holy Grail, battling the evil Nazi regime along the way. Indy eventually discovers the Grail, seemingly achieving his ultimate goal, but then, it slips into the abyss, lost forever. Yes, it’s just a movie, but the message is clear: grails are meant to be unobtainable. So why pursue the impossible? Is it for the sake of the journey, or is it setting ourselves up for inevitable failure?
Well part of that answer lies in the history of the term “grail” and how it has been used. Sparing us the Robert Langdon version of the term — it essentially comes from an French word “graal” or “greal,” which is believed to stem from the Medieval Latin “gradalis,” meaning “a platter” or “a dish served in stages.” The first known literary appearance of the “grail” is in the 12th century poem “Perceval” by Chrétien de Troyes, where it is described as a mystical cup associated with the Last Supper. Over time, the “grail” became heavily associated with Christian symbolism, representing the cup used by Jesus at the Last Supper, and the quest for the grail became a metaphor for a spiritual journey. Today, “grail” is used figuratively to describe an extremely desirable or elusive goal, often referring to something someone is intensely searching for.
The term “grail watch” when it comes to watch collecting, is often used to describe that one ultimate piece—the watch that will complete a collection and bring a sense of fulfillment. But just as the Holy Grail in legend is elusive and unreachable, a true grail watch should be almost impossible to obtain. And yet, collectors frequently conflate “dream watch” with “grail watch.” By definition, a grail should be out of reach.
Grail quests, after all, are not about acquiring something tangible. They are about the impossibility of the task, the search for something that transcends the material. Many, including Jack, argue that grail watches serve as a guiding light for collectors—a North Star to orient oneself toward, something that defines who you are as a collector. But at their core, grail quests are symbolic gestures, searches for meaning, for purpose, for an understanding of what drives us. In this way, pursuing a grail watch is not so much about owning a watch as it is about discovering what that perfect piece represents to you.
Think of it this way: your grail car might be a BMW 3.0 CSL, of which only 169 super lightweight examples were made in 1971. You know damn well you’ll never own it, but that doesn’t stop you from appreciating the car and allowing it to inspire your collecting journey.
Building a Collection: A More Rewarding Path
Every watch collection should have a few foundational pieces. First, there’s the “go anywhere, do anything” (GADA) watch. This is your daily driver—a watch with at least 100 meters of water resistance, understated enough to wear apple-picking yet polished enough for a wedding. My Baltic Aquascaphe checks all these boxes. Along the same vein, you should always give love to the microbrands and independents, not just the big box, big name brands. The little guys need their love too.
Next, you need a dual-time or world-time watch for travel. A gold watch is also essential, not just for the sheer joy of owning one but for its timeless appeal. The gold piece should be vintage—something that carries history and character. I personally am still on the hunt for my gold vintage watch. Some contenders are the Universal Geneve Polerouter, vintage Ulysse Nardin, or a 1955(6) Day-Date in honor of my fathers birth year. And don’t forget a salmon dial and/or a white dial watch. They’re sexy, timeless, and everyone should own at least one. I find many modern collections eschew white dials, but they are coming back — mark my words.
For balance, you also need a digital or quartz watch. I recommend a G-Shock—perfect for chopping wood out back in your flannel. Finally, your collection wouldn’t be complete without an expensive piece, something that’s only for black-tie affairs.
If you have these five categories covered—a daily driver, a gold piece, a travel watch, a salmon or white dial, and a durable work watch—you’ve got a versatile collection. Throw in your “luxury watch” — and you have built a true watch collection that will evolve in time.
A Collecting Journey Worth Embracing
The myth of the grail watch persists in watch collecting, but it’s time to let go of the idea that one watch will provide ultimate fulfillment. The joy of watch collecting is in the discovery, the growth, and the ongoing pursuit of pieces that reflect your personal journey. Rather than seeking a single, perfect watch, work on building a collection that evolves with you, that represents not just a moment in time but an ongoing passion.
Collecting is about more than acquiring a trophy—it’s about curating a story. And that story is far richer when it spans many chapters, each marked by a different watch that reflects who you are at that time.