Time For a Change: Vacheron Overseas Chronograph

The concept of an “upscale” Rolex Daytona might sound like a redundant notion. After all, the famed “Cosmograph” is a standard of reference in the luxury watch sector and the chronograph against which all others are measured.

But there’s a difference between being the “standard” and beating it. The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Chronograph matches the Daytona’s prestige play and raises the stakes with exclusivity, fine finish, and design detail the Rolex can’t touch. Now available from The 1916 Company, the Overseas Chronograph represents “Holy Trinity” cachet and value in a Rolex-rivaling package.

For many years, Vacheron was a peripheral player in the sports watch market. While occasional “sporty” VCs like the 1960s ref. 6782″T-bird” and ref. 222 of the 70s broke up the marathon march of dress watches, it wasn’t until the sports watch boom of the 1990s that Vacheron became serious about the sector.

In 1996, VC launched the Overseas to compete lug-to-lug with Patek Philippe’s Nautilus and Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak. 1999 witnessed the debut of an Overseas chronograph, and 2004 brought a 42mm case that tailored the Overseas to suit contemporary tastes for bolder styles and larger watches.

The example pictured here represents the latest Vacheron Overseas Chronograph design and development. In fact, the watch is fresh from a comprehensive factory service at Vacheron’s North America service headquarters, and a transferable twelve-month factory warranty is in effect as of July 2014.

From inception, it was clear that the Overseas would be exclusive piece. Compared to rivals Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet, VC produces about half and one-third as many watches per year, respectively. In practice, the Overseas is even more scarce than the Nautilus and Royal Oak. While those watches have been on the market for decades, and many pre-owned models come to market alongside new versions, the 42 mm Overseas Chronograph featured here has been available only since 2004.

The dial of the Overseas Chronograph is where Vacheron Constantin declares intent to distinguish itself from the Daytonas of the world. A  double-digital grand date display at 12 o’clock affords excellent legibility and a feature that the Daytona can’t match. Despite fifty years of history, the Rolex remains as dateless as the captain of your high school’s mathletics team.

Vacheron employs an intricate rose-lathe guilloché on the dial that adds visual interest and articulates the large open swaths of silver metal. Each of the chronograph subdials features a fine  concentric circle pattern that speaks to VC’s eye for detail. Black oxidized hands are a unique touch that really “pop” against the light tone of the dial, and matching applied indexes compound the effect; it’s a standout.

VC’s Overseas case may be a newcomer to the sports watch scene, but it’s well on its way to becoming a classic in its own right. The combination of a brushed case and polished bezel creates an impression of substance that eclipses the wrist presence of any Daytona. Thoughtful bezel faceting echos the signature Vacheron “Maltese Cross” logo and adds to the impact of the Overseas Chronograph.

Style with substance is the ultimate package, and the Overseas Chronograph delivers. While Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak Chronograph is barely suited to the kiddie pool at 50 meters of resistance and Patek Philippe’s $60,000 Nautilus 5980 chronograph is rated to 120m, the Overseas Chrono boasts a 150 meter rating for peace of mind in the pool, ocean, or shower.

While the Overseas sometimes draws questions about its use of a “customer caliber” movement, these questions are misguided. If you’re going to use a customer caliber, use the best, and VC does. The Overseas’ F. Piguet (now Manufacture Blancpain) chronograph engine is a gem and a fitting power plant for a watch like the Overseas. In practice, its pushers are crisp, and its action is smooth. Under the hood, the finish is executed to a standard that’s unmistakably Vacheron. Polishing, angling, and linear Côtes de Genève speak to the degree of effort that VC craftsmen invested in this watch.

A steel bracelet with double deployant action ensures comfort and security on the wrist.

Twin-trigger release permits easy removal when desired while eliminating the potential for accidental deployment in the event of sudden shock or a glancing blow. While comparisons to the Daytona generally favor the Overseas, where the bracelet is concerned, VC absolutely leaves the Rolex for dead.

Vacheron’s system combines rugged links similar to the Rolex Oyster bracelet with the discreet profile of the legendary “President” Crownclasp from the Day-Date. Rolex offers no such combo, and VC includes it as standard.

The 1916 Company is proud to offer this Vacheron Constantin Overseas Chronograph with a suite of factory equipment including the original box set, factory technical literature, and the ultimate accessory: a twelve-month Vacheron warranty valid from July 2014 and transferable to the next owner.

Rolex Daytonas, Hublot Big Bangs, and Omega Speedmasters represent the meat of the luxury chronograph market. While they span a considerable range of prices and case sizes, their common threads are volume production and ready availability. There’s scarcely a boardroom in America that doesn’t feature one of these musketeers poking out from a shirt cuff.

But the Overseas is different. It’s a double-take watch that impresses at first glance and draws thoughtful questions upon the second. The next owner of this watch had better enjoy the attention, because he’s bound to become an unofficial Vacheron Constantin “brand ambassador” to his office.