Guide To The Best Starter Watches From Luxury Brands
If you’re just starting out on your watch collecting journey, the world can be overwhelming and you may not know where to begin. If you’re already a seasoned collector, you may be looking to branch out to different brands. In this guide, you’ll discover watches that are an introduction to each brand as well as starter watches for building a collection including:
> Starter Watches Under $5,000
> Starter Watches From Independent Manufacturers
What Makes A Starter Watch
A starter watch can be an entry-level watch for a new collector, but it can also be an introduction piece to a new favorite watch manufacturer. What goes into picking the perfect starter watch?
1. The Watch Must Speak To You
Buying a watch isn’t for anyone other than you. So when you’re buying a piece it should be because you like the design and the brand, not because it’s trendy.
2. Buy Something You’ll Wear
There are endless watch brands and endless watch designs. Watches can range from casual or sporty to dressy and avant-garde. You’ll want to make sure the watch you choose fits your lifestyle. If you have sporty hobbies or an active lifestyle, a steel watch with a higher water resistance may be what you’re looking for. On the other hand, if you have many formal events to go to, something dressier with fewer complications and in a precious metal may work best. If you’re in and out of meetings, there is more flexibility in what you can wear, either opting for something on the sportier side or more formal.
3. Stay Within Budget
Along with the many different manufacturers, there are many different price points. For a starter watch or any watch you purchase, you’ll want to stick to your budget. Oftentimes purchasing pre-owned over new will give you more options for watches in pristine condition. You can also decide if boxes and papers are an important factor for your collection as these can add value to the watch. Here are some starting price points for popular brands:
> Tag Heuer – $1,700
> Breitling – $2,750
> Omega – $3,000
> Panerai – $4,250
> Rolex – $5,000
> Audemars Piguet – $10,000
> Patek Philippe – $12,000
A question our client advisors are often asked is, ‘What watch would you recommend from this brand?” Discover some of our favorite introductory watches, across various price points, from some of the most popular brands at The 1916 Company.
5 Starter Watches Under $5,000
1. Rolex Datejust
The Rolex Datejust is a classic timepiece from the brand and one that is instantly recognizable. People buy Rolex watches at different stages of their lives and to celebrate different events. The Datejust is a classic design that will work dressed up or casually. For those starting their collection, a vintage Datejust will give the brand provenance and a versatile timepiece for an affordable price. At The 1916 Company, there is an assortment of men’s and ladies’ Rolex watches for under $5,000.
Price Range: $3,850 – $89,950
2. Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional
When one thinks of Omega watches, often the Speedmaster is at the top of the list. The watch has gone through extreme testing and was chosen by NASA to be worn on space missions. The watch became the first on the moon in the Apollo 11 mission and was critical during the Apollo 13 mission to time a 14-second burn. The Speedmaster is available under $5,000 in various models including the Moonwatch Professional, Racing, Speedsonic, and Reduced.
Price Range: $3,650 – $79,950
3. Tudor Black Bay
For a robust option, influenced by the original Tudor Submariner from the 1950s and thus injected with DNA from sister-company Rolex, the Black Bay was introduced in 2012. Although it is a relatively new collection, there are over a dozen variations. The watches feature 150-200m water resistance with a uni-directional bezel and screw-down crown for diving. The range offers stainless steel models, bronze, two-tone and even PVD coated pieces. There is also a wide variety of dial colors from blue, brown, black; and bezel options include blue, brown, red, black, silver or smooth. For those looking for a complication, the Black Bay is available in a GMT also priced under $5,000. The Black Bay Fifty-Eight in blue offers a slightly smaller case size than other models, measuring 39mm, and is versatile on the steel riveted bracelet.
Price Range: $3,450 – $8,950
4. Oris Divers
Oris offers an incredible lineup of Swiss watches, at an affordable price point and is a favorite among collectors of all levels. The brand offers a rich history, founded in 1904, and offers a strong connection to the outdoors including their first dive watch in 1965. Today’s Oris Divers Sixty-Five offers vintage-inspired features and is also available in many variations, including different dial colors, indices, two-tone and bronze materials. The Divers are powered by extremely reliable mechanical movements. Chronograph models are priced under $3,000 and classic divers are available under $2,000.
Price Range: $1,95 – $3,250
5. Breitling Navitimer Chronograph
The Navitimer Chronograph is a classic among the Breitling lineup. The model originally launched in 1952 and offered pilots a useful instrument. Since launching, the Navitimer is an icon among the brand. The slide rule calculator along the rehaut of the dial rotates bi-directionally and can easily multiply or divide. For a full overview of how the slide rule works, watch our hands-on review of the Navitimer World Time. Today, there are different models of the Navitimer, including the iconic Chronograph version and non-chronograph versions.
Price Range: $2,750 – $16,000
Other great starter watches you can find for under $5,000 include models from Tag Heuer, Sinn, Cartier, and more.
5 Starter Watches Over $5,000
1. Bulgari Octo Finissimo
The Bulgari Octo Finissimo is one of the world’s thinnest automatic watches and weighs 73 grams. Paired with a titanium case, this model is a perfect conversation piece for someone just getting to know Bulgari. While Bulgari is known for its jewelry, it also masters the art of watchmaking. This ultra-thin watch is also ultra-light and comfortable to wear. The Octo Finissimo is minimalist and industrial in design but features multi-faceted finishing on the case elevating it to an extraordinary price. The model took home the best men’s watch prize at GPHG 2017 and later editions of the model have continued to set records.
Price Range: $10,450 – $59,950
2. Grand Seiko Spring Drive ‘Snowflake’
Another titanium watch, this time weighing 100 grams, and has an emphasis on design is the Grand Seiko Spring Drive SBGA211 ‘Snowflake’. For collectors unsure of adding a Grand Seiko to their collection, this model sets itself apart. It is powered by the extremely accurate Spring Drive movement, which took 28 years to develop and combines the best of automatic and quartz movements. The dial is one of the most unique aspects, textured to resemble fresh snowfall outside of the design house. The watch offers a 72-hour power reserve and, thanks to its movement, a deviation of +/- 1 second per day of accuracy.
Price Range (Heritage Collection): $2,750 – $36,950
3. Cartier Santos de Cartier
Cartier, similar to Bulgari, may be known for its dazzling jewelry but has a long-standing history in watchmaking and popularizing the modern wristwatch. The Santos model was originally developed for Alberto Santos-Dumont in 1904 and went under a redesign in 2018. If you’re just being introduced to Cartier, the Santos model offers different case sizes and SmartLink bracelets. Learn more about this watch and why it is one of the best to own.
Price Range: $7,450 – $32,950
4. A. Lange & Sohne Lange 1
If you’re looking for an introduction to A. Lange & Sohne models, look no further than the Lange 1. The model is unassumingly classic and traditional in size at 38.5mm. The dial is unique with a large face and offset hour and small seconds. There is a slight overlap of the two, combining the time-telling elements. The finish and finishing style define the watch, especially on the movement. The manual wind caliber features a ¾ style plate and is made from German Silver, a nice throwback to original pocket watch designs.
Price Range: $26,950 – $229,950
5. Patek Philippe Calatrava
From a brand that is known for its high complications, the Calatrava makes for a simple introduction to the brand. The model is timeless and the model is considered a flagship for the brand. The reference 5119R-001 was introduced at Baselworld in 2006. Less is more when it comes to this model, it features a classic white lacquered dial and small seconds, balancing the dial. The hobnail bezel is a classic Patek Philippe design and took influence from the reference 3919. The watch is a perfect introduction to the Patek Philippe family and for those looking for a more formal watch.
Price Range: $11,950 – $43,950
Starter Watches From Independent Watch Manufacturers
1. Nomos Glashutte Club
Nomos Glashutte is a young brand but has a strong sense of design and features in-house movements. For those who are new to the brand, the watches feature a minimalist design but technical mastery in the movement. The Club collection was introduced in 2007 and is a sportier option compared to models from the Zurich or Ludwig collections. The Club Campus features a California dial, with Arabic numerals on the top half of the dial and Roman numerals on the bottom. The navy version of the 39mm watch offers both casual wear and something that can be dressed up.
Price Range: $3,000 – $4,500
2. Laurent Ferrier Galet Montre Ecole Annual Calendar
Laurent Ferrier is another young Swiss watch manufacturer, founded in 2009 by watchmaker Laurent Ferrier who spent 40 years working for Patek Philippe. The company produces around 150 watches per year. The Galet Montre Ecole Annual Calendar was designed in-house and released in 2018. The model pays tribute to Laurent Ferrier’s first manual wind movement. As with other models from the brand, the Annual Calendar has an emphasis on finishings and design. The colors are vintage-inspired while the annual calendar is completely adjusted by rotating the crown in different positions. Watch our hands-on review to learn more about the watch.
Price Range: $34,950 – $79,950
3. Ressence Type 1 Slim X LE
For those looking for a unique addition to their collection, Ressence offers a distinctive design. The Type 1 was released in 2019 and offers a slimmer profile than other models. This Type 1 Slim X was launched in 2020 as a limited edition celebrating 10 years of the brand. The motto of the brand is ‘Beyond Hands’ and each display spins on an axis. To learn how to use this watch, watch our review. Ressence is a brand known to push design and also features models with oil-filled dials to improve legibility.
Price Range: Starting at $15,950
4. F.P. Journe Chronometre Souverain
If you’re just getting introduced to F.P. Journe, the Chronometre Souverain is quintessential Journe design and was inspired by the Marine chronometers of the 19th century. While more classic in design than other F.P. Journe models, the Chronometre Souverain offers many iconic Journe design elements. This includes the tapered blue hands found on the hour, minute, and power reserve hands, large Arabic numerals, and a slim knurled crown. The model also received the Best Men’s Watch Prize at the Geneva Grand Prix D’Horlogerie in 2005.
Price Range: Starting at $47,950
5. H. Moser & Cie. Swiss Alp
H. Moser & Cie. is another small production brand that makes headlines with its designs. The brand first started in 1828 and is still run by descendants of Heinrich Moser today. The brand has a strong emphasis on the craftsman behind the watches and this translates into the unique and playful designs seen in the models. The Swiss Alp model was introduced in 2016 as a satirical and whimsical design and a play on the smartwatch. The watch has evolved over the years and the last iteration of the model uses Vantablack, the world’s darkest substance, and features a small-seconds designed to look like the standby mode on a smartwatch. If a satirical watch is not quite your style, H. Moser & Cie. offers an extensive model range all with an emphasis on design and wearability.
Price Range: Starting at $21,950
Discover a few of our other guides for getting started in collecting: