Rolex: Dive Watches That Dominate the Market

Rolex originally created dive watches during the diving boom in the 1950s and 60s. The release of the Submariner in 1953 was an instant success for divers and desk-divers alike. From this initial release, Rolex has continued to evolve its materials and engineering to make advancements in the dive watch category.

The dive watch is useful in and out of the water because of its versatility. The robust steel found in a Rolex dive watch is corrosion resistant and is also not as expensive as a precious metal. While one does not go out of their way to create scratches on a watch, general wear can cause small scratches across the bracelet and case. Being steel, these models are seen as a tool watch and the scratches can tell stories of different adventures. A well-made dive watch, such as one from the collections we will be exploring below, can take you from seaside vacation to being back in the office.

Popular Rolex Dive Watch Models and References:

> Submariner Date “Hulk” ref. 116610LV
> Vintage “Bond” Submariner, ref. 6538
> Sea-Dweller 4000, ref. 126600
> Deepsea Sea-Dweller “Deep Blue” ref. 126660
> Yacht-Master, ref. 226659
> Yacht-Master, ref. 169622
> Yacht-Master II, ref. 116688
> Yacht-Master II, ref. 116689

The Definitive Rolex Submariner

The Rolex Certified Pre-Owned Submariner is one of the most popular dive watches and Rolex models. It was the first true dive watch released by Rolex, following the water-resistant Oyster. Since its  first release, watch connoisseurs have continued to collect Submariner models, loving them for their simplicity and versatility. Rolex has released the Submariner in both a date and no-date version. Many celebrities such as Gordon Ramsey and John Mayer  wear models from the Submariner collection. the popular model, including Gordon Ramsey and John Mayer.

Submariner Date “Hulk” ref. 116610LV

In 2003, the watch world saw the launch of the 50th anniversary 16610LV, also known as the Hulk, with the green dial and green bezel. These colors were kept when Rolex made an important update in 2020, increasing the case size from 40 to 41mm. Today collectors have the option of Oystersteel, white gold, yellow gold, or two-tone cases.

Style: Casual, Sport
Gender: Mens
Dial Color: Green
Case & Bracelet Material: Stainless Steel
Buckle Type: Folding Buckle
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Vintage “Bond” Submariner, ref. 6538

James Bond author Ian Flemming was already a fan of the Rolex brand so it was no surprise when he mentioned Rolex in the novel, Live and Let Die (1954) and the brand was featured in the first film, Dr. No (1962). The model worn by actor Sean Connery was a 6538 No-Date Submariner, and enthusiasts believe it may have been Connery’s personal watch.

Style: Casual
Gender: Mens
Case Material: Stainless Steel
Movement: Mechanical (Automatic)
Complications: Time-Only

Submariner: Is It A Good Watch To Buy?

The Submariner is the pinnacle around which all other water-friendly Rolex watches were built. After some serious R&D, the first Submariner hit the halls of Baselworld in 1954 with 100m of water resistance, a twin-lock screw-down crown, luminous indices and hands, and, of course, a timing bezel. Since then, it has continued to evolve in a relatively linear fashion, adding modern niceties like a sapphire crystal, ceramic bezel, and ultra-bright Chromalight luminous material for its indices and hands.

While some are enamored with two-tone models, others favor the basic black no-date Sub. For collectors that prefer a more extravagant watch—and Rolex’s Rolex caliber 3035— the 16800 from the late 70s was a game changer. It’s a watch that ages very interestingly on account of its aluminum bezel insert.

Rolex Sea-Dweller: Diving Even Deeper

When the Submariner just couldn’t withstand maximum ocean depths, soon thereafter came the Sea-Dweller. In Rolex’s work with the French professional diving firm COMEX, a fix was needed for the watches being used by saturation divers. The crystals on their watches had developed a knack for popping off due to pressure differential during desaturation. Rolex developed the Helium Escape Valve as a result, and rather than fitting it into Submariner cases moving forward, the Rolex Sea-Dweller was created, with a depth rating of 2,000ft/610m.

Originally with the same 40mm case dimensions as its sibling, the Sea-Dweller  has since grown to 43mm and most recently gained red dial text and a date-magnifying cyclops for the first time. Though the OG is cool, this latest version would be my choice.

Sea-Dweller 4000, ref. 126600

The Sea-Dweller 4000 features a stainless steel case and bracelet with a striking black bezel and dial to contrast the white numbers, hands, and markers. It’s an automatic watch with a dive depth of up to 4,000 feet.

Style: Casual, Sport
Gender: Mens
Dial Color: Green Black
Case & Bracelet Material: Stainless Steel
Buckle Type: Folding Buckle
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Deepsea: A Rolex to Survive a Depth of 12,800 Feet

Of course the arrival of the Helium Escape Valve and 610m of water resistance was not the end of Rolex’s push towards greater depths; we now have the mighty Rolex Deepsea. Initially meant to be the successor to the Sea-Dweller (which was briefly discontinued and then brought back), the 2008 Deepsea set a new benchmark for the deepest-diving Rolex ever; it is listed as water resistance to 12,800 feet, a figure nary a mere mortal will ever remotely approach.

Deepsea Sea-Dweller “Deep Blue” ref. 126660

In 2014, Rolex unveiled a special edition of the Deepsea dubbed the D-blue, paying tribute to James Cameron’s epic Deepsea Challenge mission—which featured a Rolex prototype strapped to the outside of his submersible. Of the Deepsea models, the gradient blue to black dial of the D-blue is pretty hard to beat.

Style: Casual, Sport
Gender: Mens
Dial Color: Black
Case & Bracelet Material: Stainless Steel
Buckle Type: Folding Buckle
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Bonus: Water-Resistant Rolex Watches For Ocean Sports

While the following two models aren’t considered dive watches because of their bi-directional rotating bezels, we couldn’t leave them off our list. They are both inspired by the world of sailing.

Yacht-Master

Of the pack, the Yacht-Master is certainly the most casual and low key of the brand’s dive/water-friendly offerings. The Yacht-Master entered the collection as more of a lifestyle watch in the sense that its roots don’t go back to commercial diving or other activities. The model first hit the market in 1992, measuring 39.5mm across and cased in 18k gold. A mid-size model followed, as did offerings in stainless steel.

Style: Casual, Sport
Gender: Mens
Dial Color: Black
Case Material: White gold
Strap/Bracelet Material: Rubber (Black)
Buckle Type: Folding buckle
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Yacht-Master, ref. 169622

Style: Casual, Sport
Gender: Ladies
Dial Color: Silver
Case & Bracelet Material: Stainless Steel
Buckle Type: Folding buckle
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What remained constant is its bezel design–a feature in existence for aesthetic reasons above all else, and one that helps the Yacht-Master distinguish itself from the more utility-focused Submariner. Though it uses a screw-down crown, Rolex has maintained a modest yet very usable 100m of water resistance on this model. Of the pack, my preference is still for the reference 116655–the Everose gold model with a black ceramic bezel, not to mention the first watch to feature the brand’s over-engineered and awesome Oysterflex bracelet.

Yacht-Master II

The “big brother” Yacht-Master II is similar to its sibling in that it’s a newer addition that arrived with a consumer focus. But that’s where the similarities end. The hefty 44mm model features a unique yachting timer complication that allows its wearer to time countdowns of as few as one, and as many as 10, minutes. It’s a unique and complex mechanism that uses its crown, pushers, and even its bezel to set the specific flyback point, making it (arguably) one of the most complex Rolex watches in current production.

Yacht-Master II, ref. 116688

Style: Casual, Dress, Sport
Gender: Mens
Dial Color: White
Case & Bracelet Material: Yellow Gold
Buckle Type: Folding buckle
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Yacht-Master II, ref. 116689

Style: Casual, Sport
Gender: Mens
Dial Color: White
Case & Bracelet Material: White Gold
Buckle Type: Folding Buckle
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Many collectors tend to gravitate toward the steel-cased reference 116680 as much from a utility standpoint as for its design. The blue Cerachom bezel provides better contrast against a steel case. Other options include Rolex’s stunning gold pieces. Click here to browse our entire collection of pre-owned gold Rolex watches.

Other Rugged Rolex Timepieces 

Aside from Rolex’s impressive suite of dive watches, they also offer a plethora of other functional, rugged watches like the Rolex Explorer and Sky-Dweller. The Explorer, Rolex’s oldest sports watch, was built to withstand any sport or activity while still blending in with any lifestyle. Sophisticated and refined, the Sky-Dweller has numerous combinations for any taste. If you’re new to collecting watches from this brand, browse our full suite of men’s Rolex watches, or peruse their vintage offerings.

While a Rolex dive watch may not see the water unless you’re on vacation, it is a robust tool watch that can be worn in any environment. Today, the Submariner and Sea-Dweller can be found in various case materials and even dial colors, showing the evolution from dive-specific model to everyday wear. Let us know, do you wear your Rolex dive watch when diving?

Frequently asked questions about Rolex dive watches

Here are some of the questions we get asked about Rolex dive watches and wearing a dive watch in general.

Does anyone actually wear a dive watch while diving?

As technology has evolved over the years, it’s hard to tell how many people today wear Rolex dive watches on scuba expeditions. There are stories of people who are passionate divers in today’s world, who wear both a dive computer and a classic analog dive watch such as a Rolex. They see wearing the Rolex dive watch as a backup in case the computer technology fails, allowing them to continue to have a safe dive.

Is a Rolex a dive watch?

Some Rolex timepieces are dive watches. While not the first watchmaker to create dive watches, today the Rolex Submariner is the most popular Rolex on the market.

Can you wear a diver watch casually?

Yes, you can. Dive watches tend to be bulkier so some wearers prefer to choose another luxury watch, but it’s fine to wear one for the right occasion.

Why are dive watches so thick?

At the maximum depth rate of quality dive watches, there is an enormous amount of pressure, necessitating a thicker case to withstand it.

This article was edited and updated on May 10, 2022.