Rolex History: Everything You Need to Know About Rolex Watches
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Rolex is one of the most well-known watch manufacturers and has been producing watches since 1905. For those who aren’t collectors or familiar with watch brands, a Rolex is synonymous with luxury watches. Whether you own one, or you’re eyeing one to add to your collection, do you know much about the brand? In this overview you’ll learn about:
> Current Production & Past Models
The Development of Rolex
Originally founded in 1905 in London by a 24-year-old Hans Wilsdorf and brother-in-law Alfred Davis, Rolex was first known as Wilsdorf and Davis. They originally imported movements, housed them in British cases, and sold them to jewelers. Through this, the pair saw the potential for developing their own brand. In 1908 this was realized when Wilsdorf secured the name Rolex.
Where Did Rolex Come From?
The name ‘Rolex’ didn’t come from the last name of the watchmakers, instead, Wilsdorf said the name came to him while riding a horse-drawn bus when a ‘genie whispered Rolex in [his] ear.’ Wilsdorf wanted a short name that would be easy to remember, and say, in any language. While the brand started in London, after trademarking ‘Rolex’ the company quickly opened an office in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland.
Wilsdorf always saw an appeal for precision in timekeeping and in 1910 a Rolex became the first wristwatch to carry the Swiss Certificate of Chronometric Precision. In 1919, the brand moved from England to Geneva. In 1920, the name officially changed to Montres Rolex S.A (for Société Anonyme, or a limited company) and later to Rolex S.A.
Innovations & Patents
The history of Rolex is tied to the history of watchmaking in the 1900s. Rolex boasts of having over 500 different patents since its inception. This comes as no surprise as there are over 2,000 employees in just the manufacturing and assembly of movements. The company also has several research and development departments looking at everything from new watches, efficient manufacturing and metals, to testing.
The First Waterproof Watch
In 1926, the watch industry saw an important change, perhaps one of the most important milestones in modern watchmaking. Rolex invented the first waterproof case using a patented screw-down crown, case back, and winding crown. It was called the Rolex Oyster case. This watch was put to the ultimate test by Mercedes Gleitze, a British professional swimmer and the first woman to swim the English Channel.
In 1927, Hans Wilsdorf had her wear the original Oyster around her neck when she attempted her swim across the English Channel. While Gleitze didn’t make it to France during this attempt, the watch kept accurate time in cold seawater and hours of immersion.
To add to the publicity around the swim, Rolex put fish tanks in shop windows with the Oyster submerged to demonstrate the waterproof qualities.
Perpetual Rotor
Just a few years after developing the waterproof Oyster, Rolex continued on the streak of innovation and developed the Perpetual rotor in 1931. We know this today as an automatic, or self-winding movement. In 1931, the Perpetual rotor would turn 360 degrees and generate energy to the mainspring. Rolex added this to the Oyster case and now the model is called the Oyster Perpetual.
During this time, however, the rotor was quite thick. Rolex adjusted the case back to compensate for the added thickness and this was the start of the Rolex “Bubbleback” models. Today, rotors have been thinned out, glide around a track on the movement, and have even been turned into micro-rotors that sit in the movement and allow for ultra-thin watches.
Automatic Date & Day-Date
Another invention added to the Oyster Perpetual models was the automatic date complication. This was introduced in 1945. This model was the first automatic chronometer to have a date aperture on the dial.
The Day-Date was launched in 1956 and was the first watch to display both the day and date. This model went on to be worn by U.S. President, Lyndon B. Johnson, and was dubbed ‘the president’s watch’. The model features a distinctive three-piece link bracelet which Rolex calls the President bracelet.
Additional Innovations
We won’t go on to mention all 500 of the patents and innovations of Rolex, but here are a few additional innovations from the brand:
> Parachrom Hairspring
> Paraflex Shock Absorber
> Cerachrom Bezel Inserts
> Syloxi Hairspring
> Chronergy Escapement
The World of Rolex
From the start of the brand, Hans Wilsdorf always pushed the envelope with innovation. This didn’t stop with the Oyster swim across the channel, instead, that was just the beginning. Rolex has been involved in some of the biggest explorations, sports and entertainment events.
Exploration
Considering Rolex named an entire collection ‘Explorer’ it should come as no surprise that the watch manufacturer has a history in exploration. Wilsdorf saw the world as a living laboratory and sent his watches into the unknown.
In 1933, a Rolex flew over Mt. Everest during the Houston Expedition. Twenty years later, in 1953, Sir Edmund Hillary and Sherpa Tenzing Norgay were the first men to stand on the summit of Mt. Everest. While the expedition team had been given prototype watches, it is thought that Hillary had left his at base camp and instead wore a Smiths De Luxe, while Norgay wore his Rolex to the summit. The model worn was an Oyster Perpetual ‘Bubbleback’ which then led to the development of the Explorer released in late 1953.
Deep Sea
If reaching the top of the world wasn’t enough, Rolex also ventured into the deep dark depths of the ocean. The 1950s and 60s saw diving becoming a popular sport and deep-sea exploration was possible. In 1960, the Trieste was launched into the deepest point on Earth, a 10,916-meter depression called the Challenger Deep. This would be the 5th and deepest dive. What was attached to the outside of the bathyscaphe? A Rolex Deep Sea Special, previous versions were also affixed to the earlier dives.
Although the Plexiglas exterior window cracked on the bathyscaphe when the pressure reached one ton per square centimeter, or 1,000 times surface level pressure, the Deep Sea Special was unharmed. In 1967 the Sea-Sweller launched for the public with a waterproof rating to a depth of 1,220 meters (4,000 feet).
Another notable deep-sea exploration for Rolex happened in 2012 when Oscar-winning filmmaker and explorer James Cameron descended into the Challenger Deep. This was the first solo dive into the deep and similarly to the Trieste, the submersible had the Rolex Deepsea Challenge on an outside robotic arm. Rolex honors this dive with the Deepsea D-Blue, a blue-to-black gradient dial similar to the change in ocean water as you dive deeper. The Deepsea D-Blue has a waterproof rating of 3,900 meters (12,800 feet). The deepest dive, and a watch rated to 10,982m but tested to 15,000m water resistance goes to the Omega Seamaster Ultra Deep Professional.
Sporting
Rolex already had a professional partnership with professional swimmer Gleitze, but this has continued over the years with involvement in golf, sailing, tennis, equestrian tournaments, and in motorsports. While many of these are sponsorships of different events or athletes, one, in particular, stands out as having an influence on Rolex models.
Motor Sports
In 1935, Sir Malcolm Campbell set the World Land Speed record, breaking the 300mph barrier and wearing a Rolex Oyster. It wasn’t until the development of the Reference 6234 in 1955 that Rolex was designing modern chronographs in-house and not in the traditional Oyster case.
In 1962, Rolex became the official timekeeper of the Daytona International Speedway and the Cosmograph Reference 6239 was introduced to celebrate. The chronograph was nicknamed the ‘Daytona’ and ‘La Mans’ at the start thanks to the partnerships with each race. It wasn’t until 1965 that all variants included Daytona printed on the dial alongside Cosmograph.
Notably, one of the rarest Daytona models is known as the ‘Paul Newman’ after the actor took up race car driving in the 1970s. These models are incredibly rare and must be an original Reference 6239 with block markers for the sub-dials and crosshairs rather than the standard plain line marker. In 2017, Paul Newman’s actual watch was on auction and sold for $17.75 million, making it one of the most expensive watches sold at auction.
The Arts & Cinema
Rolex has long been worn by celebrities, but the brand is tied to the arts in more ways than being worn. Rolex is a founding supporter of the Academy Museum of Motion pictures. There is even a gallery exploring the relationship between Rolex and cinema, which includes James Bond. Rolex has also been sponsoring the Greenroom at the Oscars since 2016.
Their partnership doesn’t end with Hollywood Rolex sponsors some of the most prestigious musical events all over the world including the Summer Night Concert by the Vienna Philharmonic, The Salzburg Festival, and the Whitsun Festival alongside some of the top musicians and conductors.
Mentor and Protege Initiative
In 2002, Rolex launched the Mentor and Protege program to bring together artists from all over the world, generations, and disciplines. Rolex aims to help encourage different types of art to be passed down to the next generations and cultures.
Rolex Non-Profit
From the beginning, Rolex set itself apart from other watch manufacturers, and corporations. Wilsdorf was an unconventional leader who pushed for new initiatives and a focus on R&D.
Wilsdorf passed away in 1960 and the ownership of Rolex S.A., which includes the interlinked sub-companies like Tudor, passed to the Hans Wilsdorf Foundation. This was originally founded in 1945 after his first wife passed away. The Foundation has continued to push for innovation in the brand true to Wilsdorf’s vision.
The non-profit foundation supports the arts and cultures, as seen in the Mentor and Protege Initiative, grants scholarships to students, and responds to public and private social services requests. Wilsdorf made Geneva his home and was involved with the community while living there and this continues through the foundation.
Because of the non-profit status and Swiss law, the company is tax-exempt on the estimated $5 billion annual revenue. The inner workings are also mostly secret outside of the known partnerships and sponsorships highlighted on the Rolex website. There have been a few public deeds by the foundation. In 2007 it offered 100 million (of the 114 million needed) for Geneva’s applied arts school to acquire a new and large campus. The foundation also designed and executed a bridge now named the Hans Wilsdorf bridge spanning across the Arve River.
Current Production Rolex & Past Models
Rolex has been consistent in its designs over its history, making minor changes to models. The brand stayed consistent during the Quartz crisis while many brands changed and eventually lost footing in the market. Rolex has continued with their sports watch heritage and these sports watches have become even more popular in the last decade.
The brand classifies its watches into two categories: classic watches or professional watches.
Classic Watches
Currently, Rolex produces 7 types of classic watches. These model families include:
Oyster Perpetual
The original watch that launched the brand was introduced in 1926. In 2021, the model family introduced vivid colors seen in past versions. Oyster Perpetual models range from 28-41mm with classic design and Oyster bracelet style.
Pricing Range: $3,500 – $16,500
Datejust
The Datejust was launched in 1945 and featured the automatic date feature within the Oyster Perpetual case. Today it features a variety of bezels, dials, and materials including precious metals and stainless steel. It currently ranges from 31-41mm.
Pricing Range: $4,000 – $82,950
Day-Date
A model that oozes prestige, the Day-Date was first launched in 1956. The model family is only available in yellow gold, white gold, platinum, or Everose gold. A bespoke day display is available in a variety of languages. Current production Day-Date models range in size from 36-40mm.
Pricing Range: $17,950 – $83,950
Sky-Dweller
The Sky-Dweller is the newest model added to the Rolex family and was launched in 2012. It features a ‘Ring Command’ system to adjust the annual calendar. This is done by pulling out the crown and rotating the bezel to different positions. The watch is Rolexes most complicated model and measures 42mm.
Pricing Range: $21,950 – $56,950
Lady-Datejust
The ladies’ version of the Datejust saw its launch in 1957. While it is a part of the Datejust family, Rolex keeps the 28mm model in the Lady-Datejust family. The model is known for its gem-set bezels and hour markers but is available in different metals and bezel options. The precious metal ladies size Datejust, including the 31mm, are the only models with a President bracelet available outside of the Day-Date family.
Pearlmaster
The gem-set Pearlmaster takes the Oyster Perpetual Datejust to the next level. The dial, case, and bracelet are all gemset to different levels showcasing the artistry of the watchmakers. Some watches have a simple diamond bezel while others feature full pave dials. The collection launched in 1992 and Rolex selects the finest of diamonds inspected by their in-house gemmology laboratory.
Professional Watches
Rolex has continuously pushed for extremes in watchmaking. Their professional watch models are designed to be worn in extreme environments as well as in daily life.
Explorer
The Explorer was launched in 1953 after sending the Oyster Perpetual to the top of Everest. It features a reinforced case and legible dials. In 1971 the Explorer II launched, evolving to larger case size and contrasting 24-hour hand. These two models have seen minor changes over the years. Most notably, in 2021 the Explorer was relaunched in its original 36mm case size and the Explorer II saw an updated movement with minor adjustments to the case.
Pricing Range: $7,450 – $15,450
Submariner
The Submariner collection launched in 1953 and has also seen minor adjustments over the years. Read our complete history of the Submariner for more in-depth details. In 2020 the collection saw an increase in case size from 40mm to 41mm. The model is available in a variety of metals and can be found with or without a date.
Pricing Range: $10,950 – $144,950
Cosmograph Daytona
Introduced in 1963 and getting its name from the famous Florida speedway, the Daytona has become one of the most sought-after Rolex models. While it is available in white gold, yellow gold, Everose gold, and platinum, the Oystersteel is one of the most popular among collectors. The most recent Oystersteel models were launched in 2016 and feature a ceramic bezel with a white or black dial.
Pricing Range: $21,950 – $279,950
Sea-Dweller
In Rolex’s strive for extremes, the Sea-Dweller family was launched in 1967 with a water resistance of 4,000 feet. In 2008, the Deepsea was launched with a depth rating of 12,800 feet. The Deepsea is also available with the D-Blue dial for James Cameron’s dive in 2012. Today the deep-diving Sea-Dweller is available in 43mm in Oystersteel or two-tone. The Deepsea is 44mm.
Pricing Range: $11,450 – $69,950
GMT-Master II
The GMT-Master II model was released in 1982 and was an evolution of the original GMT-Master model. The model today features two-tone ceramic bezels, a quick-set GMT function, and measures 40mm. Read more in our article about the GMT-Master II History.
Pricing Range: $13,450 – $92,950
Yacht-Master
The Yacht-Master was designed for the sailing world and was launched in 1992. The Yacht-Master II was designed for regatta races, with a special regatta timer that can count down the start of the race. The current production Yacht-Master measures 37-42mm and can be found in white gold, Everose gold, or two-tone versions while the Yacht-Master II measures 44mm and is only available in yellow gold. Learn more about the differences between the Yacht-Master and Yacht-Master II in our video review.
Pricing Range: $7,950 – $43,950
Air-King
The GMT-Master wasn’t the only tie to aviation, in fact, it was the first aviation connection. The original Air-King was launched in 1945 as a part of Air watches from Rolex. It was produced for the British Royal Air force and its pilots. Today the Air-King Reference 116900 is in production with a black dial and large 3,6, and 9 numerals paired with a large minute scale. This model was launched in 2016 after the previous Air-King was discontinued in 2014.
Pricing Range: $4,450 – $9,950
Discontinued Models
Rolex has been producing watches for over 100 years. While many of the model families have stayed consistent, there have been a few that have been discontinued. This doesn’t include the notable references like the ‘Batman’ and ‘Hulk’ that saw their retirement in 2020, or the Air-King 114200 that was retired in 2014.
Cellini
The Cellini is the brand’s most formal watch. While the Oyster Perpetual, Datejust, or Day-Date may be dressed-up, they all feature an Oyster case with water resistance of 100m. The modern Cellini has a water resistance of 50m and measures 39mm.
Pricing Range: $7,250 – $15,950
GMT-Master
The Original second timezone from Rolex, the GMT-Master was launched in the 1950s and was in production into the mid-1980s when the GMT-Master II was released. Read more about the history of the model in our article outlining the evolution.
Pricing Range: $13,450 – $16,950
Milgauss
Developed in 1956, the Milgauss takes the Oyster case to another extreme. This time, that extreme is in anti-magnetism. Originally, the model could withstand 1,000 gauss. The word ‘mille’ is French for one thousand, and the combination is how this model was named. Today, the watch features a striking orange lightning bolt seconds hand, inspired by the original model, a green crystal, and either a black or blue dial. Today, thanks to advances in watchmaking technology, it is estimated that the Milgauss can withstand much greater levels of magnetism.
Pricing Range: $9,950 – $12,250
Oysterquartz
While Rolex doesn’t produce any quartz watches today, they did create the Oysterquartz during the 1970s quartz crisis. The last reference was in production until 2001.
Pricing Range: $12,950 – $13,950
Datejust Turn-O-graph
The Turn-O-Graph was launched in 1953 and is reminiscent of a Datejust. The model offered a rotating bezel, preceding the GMT-Master and Submariner models. These models were the first to be equipped by pilots; the U.S. Airforce Thunderbird squadron wore these for navigational calculations. The model was discontinued but was relaunched in the early 2000s. The modern version was discontinued in 2011.
Pricing Range: $7,950 – $9,250
Rolex Serial Numbers
Up until 2011, it was possible to date your Rolex by using the serial number. After 2011 Rolex started using randomized serial numbers. The serial number will be 4-8 digits. The randomized serial numbers include both numbers and letters.
Where To Find a Rolex Serial Number
On older models, the serial numbers can be found between the lugs on the side of the case at 6 o’clock. To read this, you will need to carefully remove the bracelet. In 2005, Rolex started adding the serial number engraved onto the rehaut between the dial and crystal. In 2008, the brand was only engraving the serial numbers on the rehaut. Below is a chart that can help you date your Rolex. If your watch is engraved F000001, the watch dates to 2003. If the watch is engraved 34,336 it dates to 1935.
Rolex has been able to create tool watches for over 100 years, evolving and pushing the boundaries over that time. They used extreme marketing techniques, like the fish tank campaign and strapping watches to a submarine to prove they worked. Today, many people equate a luxury watch with being a Rolex because of its marketing and prominence in the world. Owning a Rolex is a grail for many collectors and there is a model for any use. Ready to start your Rolex journey? Discover our extensive and ever-growing collection of Rolex Certified Pre-Owned watches including the popular Daytona, Submariner, and GMT-Master II models.