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Complete Guide to the Rolex Milgauss

Emily Smith5 Min ReadOct 12 2021

The 1950s brought a number of new developments in the Rolex catalog of tool watches including the GMT-Master II, the Submariner, and the Milgauss. Unlike the other Rolex tool watches for diving, the Milgauss was designed for scientists and to withstand magnetism.

A Brief History of The Rolex Milgauss

Originally launched in 1956, the Milgauss has seen a few changes over the years, but one thing remains the same – it boasts high anti-magnetism. The name itself comes from the French word for one thousand, ‘mille’, combined with the magnetic fields that it can withstand; 1,000 gauss.

Zoom InFirst Rolex Milgauss and CERN Archive ImageCERN Archive Image and First Milgauss via Rolex.com

The 1950s saw a rapid growth in technology and science, exposing people to magnetic fields at work, and causing damage to watches. Most watches would be affected at an electromagnetic field greater than 50 gauss. Rolex worked to develop a watch that would be able to withstand interference and developed a magnetic shield, a faraday cage, to protect the movement.

After launching the first Oyster Perpetual Milgauss in 1956, Rolex partnered with CERN, the European particle physics laboratory, to test the anti-magnetic properties of the watch. This partnership continues today, over 65 years later.

Reference 6451: The First Rolex Milgauss

Taking the Oyster case and adding a rotating bezel, the original Milgauss almost looked like it could be a Submariner at first. There were a few differences between the models though. This included a honeycomb pattern dial, dots and arrow hour markers, a bright red MILGAUSS name across the dial, and the (now) iconic lightning bolt seconds hand.

Reference 1019: End of an Era

Zoom Inrolex-milgauss-ref-1019-faceMilgauss 1019 via Christies.com

The second model released was the reference 1019, launching in the 1960s. Unlike the original model, this looked more like an oyster perpetual with thin hour markers and tapered hands. The lightning bolt seconds hand was replaced with a thin hand, topped with a bright red arrow. These models featured a black or silver dial, unlike the original black dial.

The reference 1019 never became a popular model in the Rolex catalog. It was discontinued in 1988. Because of the limited production of both references, these models have become highly sought after by collectors today. In fact, the 1019 can often be found listed over $25,000 on the secondary market.

Relaunch of the Milgauss

After being discontinued for almost 20 years, Rolex revived the model in 2007. This relaunch took design influence from both of the previous models, blending them into what we know today. The model features a smooth polished bezel, thick hour markers and hands, and brought back the lightning bolt seconds hand in bright orange.

Zoom InDiscontinued Black and White Dial Rolex Milgauss

Three versions were launched with this re-release reference 116400. There was a white or black dial with orange accents, and there was a special ‘Anniversary’ model released with a black dial and green-tinted crystal known as the Glace Verte (GV). The white dial and black dial clear-crystal versions of the Milgauss have since been discontinued.

Of course, technologies have changed over the years that the model was discontinued. Today, while there is still a shield protecting the movement, Rolex has equipped the model with a Parachrom-Blu hairspring, a magnetic alloy that is resistant to magnetic fields and extremely shock resistant. Because of this shield protecting the movement, the Milgauss is slightly thicker than other models.

Z-Blue

Zoom InRolex Milgauss Z-Blue 116400GV

In 2014, Rolex launched a unique variation of the model, a blue dial-green crystal, aptly named the Z-Blue. While this model matches the other versions of the Milgauss, the dial and crystal combination are not something found on any other Rolex. It still features the bright orange accents for the minute track and seconds hand, but has a metallic blue dial. This dial, paired with the green crystal, reflects light in a different way, making the dial sometimes more green or blue depending on the lighting and the angle.

Technical Details of the 116400

Zoom InRolex Milgauss -116400GV Black Dial

As with all Oyster Perpetual models, the Milgauss is waterproof to 100m. The model is rated antimagnetic to 1,000 gauss, but knowing how Rolex over-tests their models and the new anti-magnetic alloys in the movement, this number may be much higher. The newer models are using the in-house Caliber 3131, which is a COSC-certified movement with a 48-hour power reserve.

Pricing and Where to Buy

Zoom InGreen Crystal and Lightening Bolt Detail on Milgauss

The Rolex Milgauss is a special piece and current production includes the Z-Blue and the black dial-green crystal versions. While it utilizes an Oyster Perpetual case, it is quite different than the typical Rolex with its unique use of color.  On the pre-owned market, and in the The 1916 Company Rolex Certified Pre-Owned inventory, the Milgauss is priced at $10,000 or more, depending on the model and accessories. Because of the unique look and anti-magnetic properties, the Milgauss is quite rare and sought after by collectors.

Discover more about the Milgauss:

> The Anti-Magnetic Anti-Rolex

> The Milgauss Z-Blue: Counter Coultre

> Milgauss Z-Blue vs Omega Railmaster Video Comparison