A Complete Guide to the Rolex Oyster Perpetual
The Oyster Perpetual is a staple in the Rolex collections. It is an elegant, yet simple model that can be dressed up or dressed down. To fully understand the model and its longstanding history, you must first go back to 1926, when Rolex was still a relatively new brand. In this guide you will discover:
> History of the Oyster Perpetual
> Oyster Use Across Rolex Materials
History of the Oyster Perpetual
In 1926, the original Oyster was launched by Rolex. This was the first waterproof watch and was even worn by Mercedes Gleitze when she swam across the English Channel. The Oyster name comes from an oyster, sealed keeping the bivalves closed keeping ocean water in. Of course, for a Rolex Oyster, the opposite is the goal, sealing the movement keeping water and dust out.
What Is an Oyster Perpetual?
Moving forward in time to 1931, Rolex patented a self-winding movement. This movement uses a weight to gently wind the watch as it is being worn on the wrist, and thus the word ‘Perpetual’ was added as the watch could be perpetually wound. It wouldn’t be until around 1945 when the name ‘Oyster Perpetual’ would be seen, combining the robust Oyster case with the self-winding movement.
Early Model Launches: Use of the Oyster Perpetual
The first Oyster Perpetual Datejust watch was released in 1945, with an automatic date change. In 1953, Rolex Oyster Perpetuals were on the Everest Expedition with Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay, leading to the launch of the Oyster Perpetual Explorer celebrating the success of the ascent. 1956 brought the debut of the Oyster Perpetual Day-Date in precious metals, as well as the Oyster Perpetual Milgauss. The Oyster Perpetual No Date launched in 1959, and was always 36mm in size. In 1964, the Ladies Oyster Perpetual launched as a 24.6mm watch.
Today, you’ll find the phrase ‘Oyster Perpetual’ across almost every Rolex dial, except for the Cellini collection. Each model is built upon the waterproof Oyster case and Perpetual winding of the automatic movement. Looking back at the early model launches, these have all become their own collections, broken into two categories, the Oyster Perpetual Professional and the Oyster Perpetual Classic.
The current Oyster Perpetual model family are all time-only, produced in Oystersteel, and range in size from 28mm – 41mm.
> 24mm – Discontinued
> 26mm – Discontinued
> 28mm
> 31mm
> 34mm
> 36mm
> 39mm – Discontinued
> 41mm
The Use Of Oyster in Rolex
Oyster is not just found across the dials or models, or referencing the waterproof case that Hans Wilsdorf developed. Rolex utilizes the Oyster name across a number of components and proprietary materials for models.
> Oystersteel: 904L steel with high polish and is corrosion resistant
> Oysterclasp / Oysterlock: a secure deployant clasp featuring a secondary locking mechanism folding over the main clasp
> Oyster Bracelet: large 3-link bracelet found across many popular models
> Oysterflex Rubber Bracelet: a blend of titanium-nickel alloy bracelet within an elastomer strap making it robust, paired with Oysterlock clasp
The Modern Oyster Perpetual
The Oyster Perpetual has always been a wearable model, blending the lines between a sports watch and a dress watch. For much of the history of the model, it was found in smaller ladies sizes or 36mm. Rolex launched a 39mm in 2015, and in 2020, the 41mm was released.
Variations
Thanks to the long history of the Oyster Perpetual, there are hundreds of variations of the model from across the years, with different case sizes, dial colors, bezel styles and indices. Today’s modern Oyster Perpetual collection features over 30 different variations.
In 2016, the 39mm Oyster Perpetual was launched with grey, blue and grape dials. While these dial colors have been popular across the collection, in 2020 Rolex introduced ‘Stella-inspired” brightly colored dials across various case sizes. The inspiration came from the popular lacquered dials found on 1970s Day-Date models.
With these new models come updates to the bracelet and movement. The Oyster bracelet for these models now features the Easylink extension system with a fully brushed bracelet. The movement in the 36 and 41mm models have also received an update, now powered by the in-house caliber 3230. This movement has a magnetic Parachrom spring and a 70-hour power reserve. The smaller models feature the caliber 2232 with a silicon balance spring and 55-hour power reserve.
Stella-Inspired Dials
One of the most exciting features from the 2020 updates are the brightly colored Stella-Inspired dials. The new colors include Coral Red, Candy Pink, Turquoise Blue, Green, and Yellow. These colored dials are found in the 41mm, 36mm and 31mm models, while a Rose color is also available on the 28mm-24mm ladies models. The staple black, bright blue and silver dials are also available across all sizes of the model.
5 Popular Oyster Perpetual Models
This long standing, entry level Rolex model has something for everyone’s taste in watches.
Reference 1018
The reference 1018 is an extremely rare Oyster Perpetual reference, produced for a few years in the 1960s. This model measures 36mm and was reminiscent of the Explorer model available during the same time period.
Reference 116000
The Oyster Perpetual 116000 is a popular model that is not typically found on the pre-owned market for very long. The 36mm case makes this an easily worn watch on almost every wrist size. On some versions, the dial also features an Arabic 3-6-9, standing out from the typical indices used. In addition to the different index options, the watch can often be found with a blue, grape, black or silver dial. The modern version of this is the reference 126000, found with a variety of the new colored dials.
Reference 114300
Launched in 2018, this 39mm Oyster Perpetual featured a popular stark-white dial alongside blue, rhodium grey, and black versions. It is powered by the caliber 3132, the predecessor to the updated movement found in current production models.
Reference 277200
The reference 277200 is the 2020 31mm Datejust. This model is an updated version from the 177200 ladies watch. This size is quite popular because it can be found in all of the new colored dial options including the Coral Red, Turquoise Blue, Green and Yellow. Unlike the previous iteration featuring an Arabic 3-6-9, this 2020 release features all index hour markers.
Reference 124300
Also a 2020 release, the reference 124300 is the largest Oyster Perpetual released, measuring 41mm. This larger case size is still quite wearable across different wrist sizes but gives a more modern-sporty wear over the classically sized 36mm reference 126000. Similar to the other new releases, this 41mm Oyster Perpetual can be found with all of the new dial colors except for the Candy Pink and the sunburst Rose.
Entry-Level Pricing
The Oyster Perpetual is the brand’s most accessible, entry-level watch. Because it can be styled in dressy or casual environments it is often seen as the perfect ‘one-watch’ for new collectors. New models retail under $6,000 for a 41mm model. On the secondary market, the Oyster Perpetual averages around $8,500, with smaller ladies pieces often found under $5,000 and newer models priced around $11,500.
The COSC-certified watch is quintessential Rolex and should not be overlooked. It is a basic time-only model available in a range of sizes, colors and priced affordably. Discover the Rolex Certified Pre-Owned Oyster Perpetual collection at The 1916 Company and find your perfect match.