Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore History & Guide
The Case & Bracelet
Launched in 1993, the Royal Oak Offshore was released as an anniversary celebration of the classic Royal Oak that was launched in the 1970s. In 2023, the Royal Oak Offshore celebrates its 30th anniversary but let’s rewind and take a look at the history of the Offshore and the trend that it helped solidify.
In this article you’ll discover:
> History of the Royal Oak Offshore
> Buying & Pricing of the Royal Oak Offshore
History of the Royal Oak Offshore
The design of the Royal Oak Offshore dates back to 1989 when Audemars Piguet designer, Emmanuel Gueit, presented a conceptual sketch of a more robust Royal Oak. This larger and sportier design was met with criticism by Gerald Genta but younger collectors liked the larger case size.
The Royal Oak Offshore was nicknamed ‘The Beast’ due to its size and weight. The 1993 launch was of 100 pieces to test the market as an anniversary model. However, the watch audience quickly latched onto the larger case and the Offshore became a top model and has been used to test new materials and limited editions.
The original Royal Oak Offshore measured 42mm across the case and was engraved with ‘Royal Oak’ across the case back, ‘Offshore’ would not be seen on the case until later releases. The first reference released was ‘The Beast’ ref. 25721ST.
In 1996, the Royal Oak Offshore debuted at Baselworld in eight new color dials with matching brightly colored straps. The first all-gold model was also released in 1996, nicknamed ‘The Beauty’. This reference, 25721BA, features a yellow gold 42mm case and a matching yellow gold bracelet. At the time of the release, it helped position the ROO as more than just a utility watch.
The large case came at a time when younger watch collectors were looking for something more modern than the classic sub-40mm case sizes many brands are known for. This 42mm wide and thicker case design helped pave the way for other large watches like the Hublot Big Bang and Richard Mille watches.
Royal Oak Offshore Diver Release
The Royal Oak Offshore saw another iteration launch, which celebrated 16 years of production in 2021. This would be the Royal Oak Offshore Diver, an evolution of the Offshore Scuba from 2005. The Offshore Diver keeps the larger case size and rubber elements that are familiar from the Royal Oak Offshore but adds in a second crown at 10 o’clock to control the rotating bezel while removing the chronograph that the Offshore is known for.
Key Characteristics
Outside of the larger case size seen on the Royal Oak Offshore, the model family also boasts bolder aesthetics and new use of materials for Audemars Piguet. It does reference the original Royal Oak design with a hexagonal shape, exposed screws, and integrated bracelet.
The Royal Oak Offshore features a chronograph with silicon, rubber, or gold pushers depending on the case. The Offshore Diver also features capped crown covers.
The case of the ROO is also thicker than a traditional Royal Oak, measuring almost 15mm tall on the wrist. This comes from making the Offshore more robust, but also due to the rubber gasket between the bezel and the case.
The bracelet for the Offshore and Offshore Diver are both integrated and tapering from the case to the buckle. Unlike the classic Royal Oak, the Offshore models feature a pin buckle. The Offshore Diver and most Offshore models are produced with a rubber strap that features depressions down the middle where it extends from the case. This rubber can come in a variety of colors, textures, or patterns depending on the model. More classic alligator straps or ‘Hornback’ crocodile straps are used across some Royal Oak Offshore references, along with a full metal bracelet option.
The Dial
Audemars Piguet is known for the use of the Tapisserie pattern or square dial pattern. On the Royal Oak Offshore, there is a Mega Tapisserie which has even larger squares than the Grand Tapisserie used on the Royal Oak. Other sizes of the Tapisserie dial are used in different Offshore models.
2021 Updates
In 2021 the Offshore Diver received a new movement, now utilizing the Calibre 4308. The new models also were updated to use a new interchangeable strap system that is directly integrated into the case studs.
The Royal Oak Offshore was also updated in 2021, to showcase 43mm and 42mm watches. New Mega Tapisserie dials were released as well as new Petite Tapisserie dials. The Royal Oak Offshore movement was updated to use the caliber 4404 in 42mm variations, while 43mm variations use the caliber 4401. In addition to being different case sizes, the caliber 4401 features a horizontal sub-dial layout while the caliber 4404 is a vertical sub-dial layout.
7 Notable Royal Oak Offshore Models
The first Royal Oak Offshore, nicknamed ‘The Beast’ made waves with its new case design and iconic blue dial, but that’s not the only reference that collectors love.
> 1. Bumblebee
> 2. Arnold Schwarzenegger
> 3. Safari
> 4. Offshore Diver
> 5. Offshore Tourbillon Chronograph
> 6. Offshore Perpetual
> 7. Royal Oak Offshore Re-Issue
> 8. Bonus: Ladies Royal Oak Offshore
1. Bumblebee
The Royal Oak Offshore ref. 26176FO is aptly nicknamed the ‘Bumblebee’ for the black and yellow coloring. This 44mm limited edition model features a black dial, black forged carbon case, and ceramic bezel while featuring distinct yellow rehaut, Arabic numerals, and chronograph details. The black ‘Hornback’ strap is accentuated with yellow stitching.
This reference was introduced at SIHH in 2009, and the use of carbon and ceramic makes the watch lighter weight than other Offshore models but uses a tougher material than steel or gold. Unlike other Offshore models, this features a folding deployant buckle rather than a tang buckle.
Pre-Owned Pricing: $33,500 – $38,500
2. Arnold Schwarzenegger T3 & The Legacy
Actor Arnold Schwarzenegger and Audemars Piguet have had a long-standing collaboration including 11 different watches across collections.
The T3 is a Royal Oak Offshore chronograph that was released in 2003, coinciding with the release of the Terminator 3: Rise of the Machines movie in theaters. The Offshore T3 was limited to 1,000 pieces split between a silver or black dial and measures 48mm across the case while it measures a whopping 61.5mm from lug-to-lug. The T3 also has crown and pusher guards that sit on a hinge.
The Royal Oak Offshore ‘The Legacy’ chronograph is a celebration of Audemars Piguet’s long history with Arnold and was released in 2011. This was designed specifically for Schwarzenegger, rather than in collaboration for a movie, like the T3. Similarly, it measures 48mm across the case and is limited to 1,500 pieces. This model is more reminiscent of classic Offshore models with no pusher guards. The black ceramic case and bezel are complemented by rose gold Arabic numerals, rehaut, and chronograph pushers. The Legacy strap is made from Kevlar, the material found in bulletproof vests.
Pre-Owned Pricing: $28,500 – $35,500
3. Safari
Introduced in 2005 was the Royal Oak Offshore ‘Safari’ that features a cream or ivory colored dial and contrasting black Arabic numerals. At the time of the original release, it was the only Offshore model fitted with the ‘Hornback’ strap. This model has been one of the most iconic Offshore references released and has been a collector favorite over the years. The cream and brown of the watch are reminiscent of the Sahara Desert and have since been discontinued. The Safari colorway has been produced with silver sub-dials or brown.
Pre-Owned Pricing: $27,500 – $35,500
4. Offshore Diver
Rather than look at a specific reference, the Offshore Diver is a subset of the Royal Oak Offshore that was released in 2010 and is designed for divers while also being more playful with colors. The Royal Oak Offshore collection has a water resistance of 100m and the release of the Diver brought a resistance of 300m. This model is another milestone for Audemars Piguet, just like the original Royal Oak. The model also brought back the double index 12 o’clock marker, a nod to the original Gerald Genta Royal Oak.
The Offshore Diver features a rotating inner bezel, along with the constant seconds and legibility that make the watch in compliance with ISO 6425, an international standard for dive watches.
The Offshore Diver has also been released in forged carbon, ceramic and has been released in colorful options such as bright green, yellow, and even a limited edition in titanium and rose gold.
Pre-Owned Pricing: $30,000+
5. Offshore Tourbillon Chronograph
To celebrate 25 years of the Royal Oak Offshore, Audemars Piguet released the Offshore Tourbillon Chronograph as a limited edition in steel or rose gold. It is more reminiscent of models coming from the Royal Oak Concept collection and features a more angular case and slightly open-worked black dial. The rose gold reference is limited to just 50 pieces and the full reference is Ref. 26421OR.OO.A002CA.01.
Audemars Piguet released another tourbillon chronograph that is more reminiscent of traditional Offshore design, with a black ceramic case and blue details. This reference 26407CE is limited to just 20 pieces.
Pre-Owned Pricing: $300,000 – $575,000
6. Royal Oak Offshore Perpetual
Audemars Piguet doesn’t shy away from trying new things, in fact just a few years after the launch of the Royal Oak Offshore, the brand released the ref. 25854BC. This 1997 release was a Royal Oak Offshore Perpetual in white gold. Later versions of this reference would be released in steel rose gold and titanium. The video review outlines the characteristics of the Royal Oak Offshore Perpetual Calendar Chronograph 25854TI.The design features a vertical chronograph sub-dial layout, with a balancing moon phase indicator in a 4th sub-dial at 3 o’clock. The other sub-dials feature a combination of chronograph registers and perpetual calendar functions like the day and month.
Today, Audemars Piguet has continued to upgrade the Offshore with a perpetual calendar. The most recent reference is the ref. 26582CE.OO.A002CA.01 featuring a black ceramic case and open-worked dial. This Offshore Grande Complication is different from other models, it features a 44mm case and 20m water resistance. Adding to the perpetual calendar, and why it is referred to as a Grande Complication, this model also features a minute repeater and split-seconds chronograph.
Pre-Owned Pricing: $100,000 – $200,000
7. Re-Issue Royal Oak Offshore ref. 26237ST
The reference 26237ST released in 2018 is the closest Royal Oak Offshore to the original reference 25721ST from 1993. The original launched with an unstable shade of blue, which has caused some versions to turn into a purple-blue color with hints of the brass dial base showing through. This re-launch and 25th-anniversary celebration of the original reference allows newer collectors to enjoy the same design that launched the collection, but with an updated movement and technology to avoid fading.
Pre-Owned Pricing: $57,500 – $69,500
Bonus: Ladies Royal Oak Offshore
Audemars Piguet has also been known to release a full diamond Offshore variant but a more wearable version is the ladies Offshore with a diamond bezel. The current production of the ladies model is 37mm and comes in rose gold, steel or two-tone steel and rose gold. The steel reference 26231ST is currently produced with a black dial, blue dial, or white dial with blue sub-dials. Ladies’ watches get a specific ‘Lady Tapisserie’ dial pattern which has a concentric engraving pattern under the indices instead of the Tapiseerie extending to the rehaut.
Pre-Owned Pricing: $39,500+
Buying A Royal Oak Offshore: Pricing and Where To Buy
Royal Oak Offshore models, or Offshore Divers, are readily available on the pre-owned market. Buying a pre-owned Royal Oak Offshore opens up the possibility to buy something that has been discontinued, like the T3, Safari, or even specific colors used in the Offshore Diver.
The Royal Oak Offshore Diver on the pre-owned market retails from $25,000 to $60,000 depending on the reference, accessories and if it is a limited edition. Similarly, Royal Oak Offshore models range from $28,000 to $110,000 or more depending on the reference. Some rare models can reach up to $425,000 or more.
Audemars Piguet uses quality materials and spends time researching and developing new technologies and movements which affect the pricing. Limited editions and highly sought-after models may also fetch a higher price point.
When buying a pre-owned Royal Oak Offshore, or any watch on the secondary market, it is important to trust who you are buying from. At The 1916 Company, we have a team of watchmakers who inspect every piece before it is listed for sale. Learn about other red flags when buying a watch, or if you’re specifically interested in buying a Rolex, discover ways to spot a fake.
The 1916 Company has an extensive collection of Audemars Piguet watches, including the Royal Oak Offshore, Royal Oak, and Code 11.59. Not sure if Audemars Piguet is the brand for you? Discover the new arrivals at The 1916 Company.
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