How to Spot a Fake Rolex
Cyclops Lens
Rolex is one of the most recognizable watch manufacturers, producing approximately one million timepieces per year. Rolex models have been worn by the likes of James Bond and other celebrities. Because of the popularity of Rolex, and especially models like the GMT-Master II or Submariner, it is no surprise that there are replica Rolex models produced. Some signs that may point to being a fake Rolex include: if the price is too good to be true, if the diamonds don’t match or look like an afterthought, and if
For some owning a Rolex is more of a status symbol and less about the mechanics or history of the brand, but buying a fake Rolex should never be the answer. At The 1916 Company we are committed to the integrity of luxury watches and employ trained watchmakers to inspect and authenticate every watch before entering our curated inventory. Our team takes watch fraud extremely seriously. Here are some tips for spotting fake Rolex watches.
10 Tips For Spotting a Fake Rolex Watch
When buying a watch online, regardless of the brand, it is important to trust your seller and do your research. While these tips are specific to Rolex, many crossover to other brands and models.
> 1. Unauthorized Seller
> 2. Ticking of the Seconds Hand
> 3. Mechanical Movements
> 4. Check the Weight
> 5. Caseback
> 6. Etchings
> 7. Dial Details
> 8. Materials
> 9. Crown Markings
> 10. Listing Details
1. Unauthorized Seller
First and foremost, it is important you trust the seller of your watch. Look at reviews, other watches for sale, and don’t be afraid to look them up for their entire online presence. If you’re purchasing new, only go through an authorized Rolex retailer, if you’re purchasing pre-owned on platforms such as eBay, or Chrono24, do your research on the seller. If you’re purchasing and you can see the watch in person, make sure to meet in a safe place and still do your research on the watch and seller.
At The 1916 Company, we have a team of highly trained watchmakers and technicians who inspect every watch before we list it for sale. Read more about our authentication process or The 1916 Company story.
2. Look For ‘Ticking’ of the Seconds Hand
The second hand can be a giveaway on the legitimacy of a Rolex. In mechanical Rolex movements, the second hand should appear smooth in movement compared to a ticking motion. You may also be able to hear a slight tick in a fake Rolex movement.
3. Mechanical Movements
If you’re able to get a photo of the movement, it should be mechanical. This means either a manual-wind movement like in the Cellini collection or self-winding automatic movements like in the Rolex Kermit.
There have been a handful of quartz models in production for approximately 25 years under the Oysterquartz collection. These were either a Datejust or Day-Date, no other models were produced with quartz movements.
4. Check the Weight
If you are able to see the watch in person before purchasing, feel it in your hands to get an idea of the heft. Rolex watches, even those produced in stainless steel compared to precious metals, have a good weight to them. Stainless steel, in general, weighs around 100-160g, with ladies being on the lighter side and steel sports watches closer to 160g. The gold models range from 190-220g and the platinum models range from 240-270g.
This can be slightly different in vintage models that used hollow links rather than the solid links we know today. Even with different bracelet weights in vintage versus new models, the watch case should still be heavier than most fakes.
5. The Caseback
Very few Rolex watches have an exhibition case back, only the Prince models in the Cellini collection have this display case back. While we don’t have an official reason behind this, there are a few reasons why Rolex would only use solid case backs. First, a solid case back will help keep the watch waterproof. Introducing an exhibition case back adds more gaskets that need to be kept watertight.
Another reason for a solid case back is to keep the watch thinner; this extra sapphire crystal is known to make some watches very thick. A Rolex Submariner already sits between 12-15mm thick so adding a display back will make it even taller on the wrist.
The solid case back should also be free of engravings. This means that there should be no Rolex branding, logo, reference number, or other engravings. Some people do choose to have their case back engraved to celebrate a special occasion, but these are also rare on the secondary market because of sentimental reasons. Of course, there are always exceptions to the rules and there are a few special models, rare references, and some older lady Datejust models that do feature engravings.
6. Etchings and Serial Numbers
While there shouldn’t be any engravings on the case back of most Rolex models, there should be a few places to look for specific engravings. Authentic Rolex watches will have their serial numbers deeply engraved, not something that is just scratched at the surface.
Since 2002, Rolex has been micro-etching a crown logo at 6 o’clock. This is visible to the naked eye without a magnifying glass. Sometimes a tilt of the dial may help bring this to be visible. If the reference you are looking to purchase was produced in or after 2002, this should be visible. The engraving is difficult for counterfeiters to replicate.
Also more recently introduced is the ‘ROLEX ROLEX ROLEX’ that is engraved around the rehaut of the dial. The serial number is engraved in the rehaut at 6 o’clock. For older models, the serial number would sit on the case flank between the lugs at 6 o’clock. The model number sits on the case flank at 12 o’clock between the lugs.
If you are able to get a picture from your seller with the case back off, there should be engravings on the inside of the case back. This should include the brand, material, and reference number.
When looking at the engravings, they should have clean edges, no mess-ups, and no misspellings. Some of these things may also be hard to see or are not photographed in online listings, which is why it is important to do your full research on the seller and model for any specific details.
7. Dial Details
Similar to the engravings across Rolex watches, the writing on the dial should be examined and this will be easier to make out in online listings. The text should be well-spaced, no bubbling, and be straight. Double-check for any misspellings, while not as common today, older fake Rolex watches had ‘Folex’ branding. While fake Rolex producers today are more avoidant of misspellings, this will be a dead giveaway.
Check for specific coloring for dial features as well. The Rolex Explorer II has a distinct red or orange hand depending on the year of manufacturing. There are also some ‘red’ Submariner models that are highly sought after which may lead to counterfeits being made.
A cyclops lens may also lead to telling if the watch is fake or not. The magnifier over the date wheel on the crystal has been dubbed a ‘Cyclops lens’ and it should magnify the date. Early Datejust models will not have a cyclops lens,because it wasn’t introduced until 1953 on the Datejust. The GMT Master and the Day-Date both launched with the cyclops.
This magnifier is glued to the crystal, and since 2005 has featured anti-reflective coating for reducing glare. The design and shape are inherently Rolex.
There are a few models that do not use the cyclops feature, even if there is a date function. This includes the older Sea-Dweller references, the Deepsea, and of course models without a date like a Submariner No Date or Milgauss.
It has been long argued among Rolex collectors that the cyclops should be 2.5x magnification, and while the Rolex website previously mentioned this, the magnification level is no longer explicitly stated. Older models should still feature a pronounced magnification, and on fake Rolex watches, the date may be hard to read due to no, or poor, magnification of the cyclops.
8. Materials
Rolex only uses the best materials for their watches, many of which are proprietary in-house materials. Lesser materials will weigh less than authentic Rolex watches, and they may scratch more easily or be plated rather than solid. If you can see scratches on a case, they should be the same color as the surface material, not taking into consideration shadowing or reflections.
Rolex materials are specific and include:
- 904L Stainless Steel
- 18k Gold
- Everose (platinum and rose gold alloy)
- 950 platinum
- Rolesor (combination gold and steel)
- Rolesium (platinum and steel)
Precious Stones
In addition to only using the best materials, Rolex only chooses specific diamonds and gems to add to watches. Rolex has in-house gemologists to examine and choose stones, the stones are then set by the gem-setters who place the stone to best reveal the color and stone quality.
The gem application is expertly done with the best fittings and stones. In fake diamond Rolex watches, the bezel may be oversized, the stones may not be straight, or you could even see noticeable inclusions or coloring.
Learn more about diamond and gem set Rolex watches, there are more models that feature precious stones than you may realize across dress watches and sportier models. When looking at a Rolex for sale with diamonds, they should feel like they were built with the watch rather than a later thought and the price should align with what is being offered.
9. Crown Markings
Similar to the engravings on the case or markings on the dial, the crown you use to wind or set the watch should also have noticeable markings. Pre-1960 Rolex watches will feature the Rolex coronet (crown logo) with a cross.
In recent models, the coronet is still there but there are added bars or dots under. These bars or dots will symbolize the watch being either a Twinlock or Triplock crown as well as the material. A steel or yellow gold twinlock crown will have a bar, while the platinum model will have a single dot. For a triplock, a white gold crown features a larger dot between two smaller, compared to the platinum model with a small dot between two larger.
10. The Details of the Listing & Price
Does the deal seem too good to be true? Is the seller local where you can see the watch? Look for spelling mistakes in the listing and double-check the specific details of the model you are looking for through a trusted resource. Look at the box and papers, if they are available. While having or not having accessories with a Rolex doesn’t mean it is fake or real, these could help determine legitimacy.
Be sure to look at the price and comparable listings for the reference. If the price seems too low, it could be someone trying to offload a fake watch to an unknowing purchaser. Having a box and papers do add to the value of selling a watch on the secondary market, in addition to condition, production year and materials used. If the watch is priced in-line with other models, it doesn’t necessarily mean that it is real, you should always do your research before purchasing.
Don’t be afraid to ask questions, at The 1916 Company our client advisors don’t hesitate to send over additional photos of the watch or answer any questions you may have.
Are Rolex Replica Watches Worth Buying? 5 Reasons NOT to Buy a Fake Rolex
No, it is never worth buying a replica watch, Rolex or another brand. In Italy and France, you can be jailed or seriously fined for buying counterfeit goods. In the United States, while it is not illegal to buy, it is illegal to sell.
1. It Can Be Confiscated
If you send in a fake watch for servicing, it may be confiscated by the brand or service center, even if it is unknown to you that it is a fake watch. Counterfeit goods are also known to be seized from the mail or airports, in 2020 Customs and Border Protection seized over 26,000 counterfeit goods shipments in the United States.
2. You Could Be Funding Criminal Activity
The counterfeit goods market is estimated to b e a multibillion-dollar industry across Rolex, other luxury watch brands, luxury handbags, guitars, sneakers and more. Counterfeiters are getting better in their production with advancements in technologies, and brands like Rolex are trying to stay ahead. However, it’s more than just buying a fake Rolex and putting money in the pocket of the person selling to you.
This money trickles back up the stream of counterfeit production and may be funding criminal organizations and terrorist attacks. The 1993 World Trade Center bombing had co-conspirators selling counterfeit t-shirts, and the Paris Charlie Hebdo attack in 2015 had weapons partly funded through selling counterfeit Nike sneakers.
3. You Hurt Your Reputation
By buying a fake Rolex, even a high quality replica, you could wind up hurting your reputation. Will people notice if you wear a replica Rolex? Maybe not the average person on the street, but other watch collectors may be able to quickly spot the fake. They may even overhear a brag about the Rolex being fake, leading to embarrassment.
The watch community is also a relatively small group, so if you try to resell even an authentic watch, you may be flagged as someone known to own fake watches. No one is impressed by a fake Rolex on your wrist, whether you are vocal about the ‘deal’ or not.
4. Your Information May Be Compromised
Depending on how you purchase a counterfeit Rolex, your credit card or identity may wind up stolen. It is important to trust your seller and the website you are purchasing through, ensuring that there are buyer protections when shopping through marketplaces.
The 1916 Company offers a 2-year warranty on all pre-owned watches sold. We also offer a hassle-free 7-day return window, or an exchange for a different model that may better suit your needs.
5. It’s a Waste of Money
While there are replica Rolex watches for a varying range of prices from a few hundred dollars to a couple thousand, any fake Rolex will be a waste of money. Rolex puts years of research and development into technologies and design, making almost every watch waterproof, providing anti-magnetic qualities in models, and using the best materials.
Fake Rolex watches are not going to last the multi-lifetimes that an authentic Rolex will offer. They will also not be waterproof, or not even provide any water resistance, meaning the movement, case and dial could all be compromised at the first exposure to moisture or water. Inevitably, you will also still want the real Rolex so the money put towards buying a replica Rolex is lost and you would start over saving for the real thing.
Buying a fake Rolex also removes the sense of accomplishment that comes with purchasing whether it is your first Rolex or an addition to your collection. Many Rolex owners save up to purchase their watch, or buy a special model to celebrate a big life event such as getting married, having a child or getting a big promotion. By purchasing a replica Rolex, you may no longer have a sense of joy when looking at the watch as it didn’t require any effort, and it is not a worthwhile heirloom that you could pass down to the next generation.
Ready to start your quest in buying a Rolex watch? Continue learning about the complete history of Rolex, other red flags when buying a watch and things to look for in a quality watch.
Shop the The 1916 Company Rolex Certified Pre-Owned collection:
> Air-King
> Datejust
> Daytona
> Day-Date